Situated at the northern end of Jew Town in Mattancherry, Paradesi Synagogue serves as a poignant reminder of the diverse communities that have called Kochi home. This architectural marvel has stood as a testament to the rich and diverse heritage of Kerala’s multicultural identity since its inception in 1568.

Built on land generously donated by the King of Kochi, the Paradesi Synagogue has borne witness to centuries of history, from the influx of European Jews seeking asylum to the turbulent periods of Portuguese and Dutch rule to the imminent thinning of the Jewish population in India.

In this blog, I take you on a virtual journey into the fascinating history of the Paradesi Jews and their splendid synagogue. Join me as I unravel the story of this oldest active synagogue in the British Commonwealth.

Entry Fee and Visiting Time

The entry fee for Paradesi Synagogue is Rs. 10. Photography is allowed inside the synagogue for free.

You can visit the synagogue from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm from Sunday to Thursday. On Fridays, the synagogue is open only from 10:00 am to 2:00 pm. Paradesi Synagogue is closed to tourists on Saturdays.

What to Expect at Paradesi Synagogue

A visit to Paradesi Synagogue offers a complete heritage tour package experience.

Your exploration begins with a stroll down the historic Jew Street, a bustling thoroughfare steeped in centuries of tradition and heritage. As you wander through the narrow lanes lined with antique shops and quaint cafes, you’ll be enveloped in the sights, sounds, and aromas of Kochi’s vibrant Jewish quarter.

Upon entering the Paradesi Synagogue, you’ll be greeted by a captivating painting gallery that narrates the rich history and heritage of the Jewish community in Kerala. Adorned with vibrant artworks depicting key moments in the community’s journey—from its origins in distant lands to its flourishing presence in Kochi—the gallery serves as a visual chronicle of resilience, perseverance, and cultural identity.

Stepping into the sanctuary, your eyes will be drawn to the exquisite beauty of the Belgian crystal chandeliers and decorative lamps that adorn the space with their radiant glow. Crafted with meticulous attention to detail and adorned with intricate designs, these luminous treasures cast a mesmerizing spell, illuminating the sanctuary with an aura of elegance and grandeur.

Interesting Fact:  In 1968, the government of India issued a postage stamp commemorating the 400^th anniversary of Paradesi Synagogue. You can spot an enlarged photograph of the stamp on the wall just outside the sanctuary in the seating area.

Who are the Paradesi Jews

Jews have known to have trade relations with Kerala since the time of King Solomon through the famed spice route. According to oral traditions of the Kerala Jews, the earliest Jewish settlers landed on the shores of Muziris, the ancient spice trading port near Kochi, in 70 CE in the aftermath of Roman destruction of the Second Temple of Jerusalem.

Since then, Jews came to settle in southern India in many different waves from Israel, the Middle-East and later in the fifteenth century from Spain. The local rulers received the Jews with open hands and the latter thrived by undertaking international trade of spices. The newer arrivals always tended to merge with the settled Jewish community.

However, this changed in 1492, when a shipload of Spanish and Portuguese Jews arrived in Kochi, fleeing the Spanish inquisition and Jewish persecution. These Jews found the already settled Jewish community to be a mixed race, having intermingled with the local Kerala population, and therefore “impure.”

The European Jews were fair-skinned, while the older settlers were brown-skinned. The newer arrivals called themselves “Paradesi Jews” and “White Jews” to distinguish themselves from the older settlers, whome they called the “Malabari Jews” and “Black Jews.”

The term “Paradesi” translates to “foreigner” in several Indian languages and was applied to this Jewish community to mark their foreign status. On the other hand, the term “Malabari” is used to denote something that belongs to Kerala, hence local.

The Paradesi Jews believed in maintaining their “racial purity,” which influenced their social structure and customs, including restrictions on intermarriage within their community. Marriages were typically permitted only among Paradesi Jews, reflecting their desire to preserve their distinct identity and lineage.

Despite their small numbers, the Paradesi Jews played a significant role in the cultural and economic life of Kochi, particularly in the areas of trade and commerce. Their presence contributed to the multicultural fabric of Kerala, enriching the region’s diverse tapestry of religions, languages, and traditions.

With the formation of Israel in 1948, many Paradesi Jews emigrated from Kochi to Israel, leading to a decline in their population in Kerala. Today, while the Paradesi Jewish community in Kochi is almost non-existent, their legacy lives on through historical landmarks such as the Paradesi Synagogue and the stories passed down through generations, continuing to enrich the cultural heritage of Kerala.

History of Paradesi Synagogue

The Paradesi Jews of Mattancherry built the Paradesi Synagogue in 1568. By this time, the Paradesis were very close to the royal family of Kochi.

Built on a piece of land adjacent to the Mattancherry or Dutch Palace, the synagogue’s construction was made possible by a generous donation of land from the King of Kochi, Bhaskara Ravi Varma, reflecting the harmonious relationship between the Jewish community and local rulers at the time.

During the Portuguese rule in Kochi from the early 16th century until 1662, the Jewish community faced persecution and antagonism from the rulers. The Paradesi Synagogue was not spared, suffering attacks and partial destruction during this period.

However, in 1662, a war between the Dutch and the Portuguese ensued, with the Jews aligning themselves with the Dutch. Following the conflict, the Dutch rebuilt the synagogue, preserving the structure that stands today as a testament to the resilience of the Paradesi Jewish community and its enduring legacy in Kochi’s history.

Architecture of Paradesi Synagogue

The Paradesi Synagogue in Kochi, Kerala, stands as a masterpiece of architectural ingenuity and cultural significance. At the heart of this historic compound lies the sanctuary, a double-height space that serves as the focal point of religious worship. Measuring 27 feet wide, 42 feet 8 inches long, and 19 feet high, the sanctuary embodies a sense of grandeur and solemnity, inviting worshippers into a sacred realm.

A distinctive addition to the synagogue is the Dutch-style clock tower, erected in the mid-18th century by Ezekiel Rahabi, the principal merchant of the Dutch East India Company in India. This tower boasts four clocks, each displaying numerals in Hebrew, Roman, Malayalam, and Arabic scripts, showcasing the multicultural heritage of Kochi.

The sanctuary’s design is characterized by a centralized layout, with bench seating surrounding the central tebah, or podium, where Torah scrolls are read and services conducted. The shallow tray ceiling, adorned with square panels featuring a lotus pattern, adds an element of intricacy and beauty to the space, reflecting the rich cultural heritage of Kerala.

One of the most distinctive features of the Paradesi Synagogue is its tile floor, comprised of blue and white Chinese tiles imported by Ezekiel Rahabi in the 1760s. Each hand-painted tile, adorned with a willow pattern, adds a touch of elegance and sophistication to the sanctuary, creating a unique ambiance that sets the synagogue apart.

The tebah, shaped like a lyre or curved keyhole, serves as the centerpiece of the sanctuary, surrounded by a stepped railing adorned with polished brass balustrades. This ornate structure, illuminated by glass-domed brass fixtures suspended from the ceiling, exudes an aura of reverence and awe.

Adjacent to the sanctuary is the gallery level, featuring a second tebah supported by brass columns reminiscent of the ancient temple in Jerusalem. This special tebah, accessed via a steep wooden stair, holds significance in religious ceremonies and rituals, symbolizing continuity and tradition.

The heckal, located opposite the entrance, serves as the most sacred feature of the synagogue, housing Torah scrolls in a beautifully hand-carved teak cabinet adorned with intricate motifs and decorations. Nearby, special chairs for Prophet Elijah and the brit mila ceremony add to the sanctity of the space, while glass lanterns suspended from the ceiling cast a warm and inviting glow.

Within the sanctuary of the synagogue lie treasures of religious and historical significance. Gold- and silver-decorated Torah scrolls, an intricately carved teak ark, and a rug gifted by Emperor Haile Selassie I of Ethiopia adorn the interior.

However, perhaps the most cherished possessions of the synagogue are the ancient copper plates, dating back 1,600 years, which bear inscriptions of the community’s charter of independence and the privileges granted to the Jewish community by the raja of Cochin.

FAQs on Paradesi Synagogue

How old is the Paradesi Synagogue?

Built in 1568, the Paradesi Synagogue in Mattancherry, Kochi, is more than 450 years old.

Who Built the Paradesi Synagogue?

Paradesi Synagogue was built by Sephardic Jews who had migrated to Kochi from Spain and Portugal, seeking refuge from the Spanish Inquisition. These Sephardic Jews were known as “Paradesi,” meaning “foreigners” in several Indian languages, hence the name of the synagogue.

Is there a Dress Code for Paradesi Synagogue?

No, there is no dress code for Paradesi Synagogue as it no longer conducts prayers on a regular basis. It now functions just like a museum. You are however required to remove your footwear outside the sanctuary and enter it barefooted.

Conclusion

The Paradesi Synagogue stands as a timeless testament to the rich tapestry of history and culture that defines Kochi.

Inside the synagogue’s hallowed halls, you are greeted by a wealth of artistic and architectural marvels, each bearing witness to the community’s rich and vibrant history. From the intricate paintings that adorn its walls to the dazzling chandeliers that illuminate its sanctuary, every corner of the synagogue exudes a charm of the bygone era.

Beyond its historical significance, the Paradesi Synagogue serves as a bridge between the past and the present, a living testament to the enduring spirit of multiculturalism and inclusivity that defines Kochi.