Situated in the historic enclave of Veli in Fort Kochi, Dhobi Khana stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of the Vannan community and their age-old profession. Steeped in history dating back to the colonial era, this humble laundry area serves as a living testament to the cultural heritage and communal spirit that define Fort Kochi.

Let me take you on a virtual journey through the fascinating culture and history of a resilient and proud community of launderers in Dhobi Khana, Fort Kochi.

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Dhobi Khana is one of the many tourist attractions in Fort Kochi. If you wish to explore all the major attractions of Kochi on a guided tour, check out this Kochi Tour with Dhobi Khana

Fort Kochi Dhobi Khana

Located next to Veli public playground in Fort Kochi, Dhobi Khana has an unassuming narrow gate with an arch that proudly announces “Vannar Sangham Dhobi Khana.”  The place attracts more guided foreign tourists than native tourists.

As you enter the premise, you will be quick to notice graffiti art in the left-side wall. The first image shows Suresh, one of the members of the Vannar Sangham who used to work at the Dhobi Khana. I was lucky to meet him on my visit and click a photo of him next to his graffiti.

A statute of Dr. B.R. Ambedkar, one of the architects of the Indian Constitution and the champion of Dalit (backward class) rights, can be found next to the entrance of the first building, which is the ironing hall.

Ironing Hall

This first building you see here is where the laundry workers iron and pack the daily loads of clothes and linens to be delivered back to their customers.

Rajashekaran here will greet you with a big smile. He speaks English and explain to you the story of how his people came to Fort Kochi. He talks with pride about his children who work in multinational companies and are well-settled.

You will feel a hint of sorrow in his voice, knowing full well that his will be the last generation to stay in the laundry business and he may live to witness the Dhobi Khana shut down. But he has no regret for the future generation. He is happy they have climbed the social ladder and are well settled with good education ad great jobs.

Rajashekaran will let you try a hand in ironing on his table while engaging in small talks. The irons they use are traditional iron boxes that work on burning charcoal as a source of heat.

Washing Area

The second hall at Dhobi Khana is the washing area. This is a wide area with many cubicles with each containing a large concrete basin of water and a large stone known as “alakukallu” or “washing stone” used for soaking and rinsing the clothes with hands.

The washing women tells me that they mostly get bedsheets from the nearby hotels and homestays. While there are at least twenty cubicles in the washing area, there were only four washers on the day we visited.

Drying Area

The launderers of the Dhobi Khana in Fort Kochi use the traditional method of hanging clothes on ropes to dry the washed clothes. The drying area is a large open space with ropes and clips to prevent the cloths from flying away. During the monsoon season, the community uses electric dryers to dry the clothes.

History of Dhobi Khana

The history of Dhobi Khana at Veli in Fort Kochi dates back to the 1720s when a group of Tamil-speaking members of the Vannan community were brought to Kochi by the King of Kochi. Their primary task was to wash the army uniforms of the Dutch, who were prominent colonial powers in the region during that time.

In 1975, with the support of the Greater Cochin Development Authority (GCDA), the Vannans established a ‘Dhobi Khana’ at Veli near Fort Kochi. This location was specifically designated for washing and drying clothes, providing the Vannan community with a centralized space to conduct their work. The Dhobi Khana was organized in the form of a sangham or society, reflecting a communal effort to sustain their traditional occupation.

Prior to the establishment of the Dhobi Khana, the Vannans carried out their laundry work near the ponds at Veli. There were around 70 ponds spread across 13 acres of land, which were owned by the Vannan community. These ponds served as vital resources for water supply and were integral to their laundry operations. The Dhobi Khana as we see it today was built in 1975 by the government for the Vannan community as a compensation for giving up 10 acres of land for a public playground.

The creation of the Dhobi Khana marked a significant transition for the Vannan community, providing them with improved facilities and infrastructure to carry out their profession. It also symbolized a shift towards a more organized and communal approach to their traditional occupation. Today, Dhobi Khana at Veli stands as a testament to the resilience and cultural heritage of the Vannan community, preserving their age-old practices amidst the evolving landscape of Fort Kochi.

The Vannan Community

The Vannan community, also known as the Vannar or Vanniyar community, is a Tamil-speaking community predominantly found in the Indian state of Tamil Nadu and in some parts of Kerala. The community is traditionally associated with occupations such as laundry work, agricultural labor, and other manual labor-intensive jobs.

The Vannam community in Veli, Fort Kochi, were brought here specifically for laundry services for the colonizers. In Tamil Nadu, they are a backward and scheduled caste. But the Vannam Community of Fort Kochi have flourished over the time. While they are a scheduled caste, they are not backward anymore. The launderers we met have their children working in multinational companies.

While the community has been in Fort Kochi for almost three centuries, they take pride in their Tamil culture. Posters of Tamil superstar, Rajnikath’s movies cover walls of the store rooms. You can even hear them play famous 80s and 90s songs from Tamil movie and hum to their music while going about their daily business.

Conclusion

The Vannan Community and their laundry service is among the last of the colonial traditions that lived survived long after the colonizers left. Sadly, the future of Dhobi Khan appears bleak as the younger generation have moved to different careers. The youngest of the launderers here are over forty years.

When you visit, consider making a small donation into their donation box to help the elderly members keep their tradition alive for as long as they can. Dhobi Khana in Fort Kochi is undoubtedly  a beacon of resilience and cultural pride for the last of the Vannar Sangham members.